Well, moving on, after drugging myself and lulling myself to sleep at the sound of buzzing mozzies, I woke up good as new and took a boat across to Bazaruto Island, my next stop. Now this place is dubbed a “pearl of the Indian Ocean” for its wonderful natural diversity, be it on land or sea. It is where the few remaining dugongs in the coast of Southern Africa can be seen, and has the best sea life viewing for the interested diver. Again, being the home to such fading beauty, the whole archipelago (including four more islands: Benguerua, Magaruque, Santa Carolina and Bangue; all exquisite) has been declared a protected area, and form part of a massive park, the Bazaruto Archipelago National Park (BANP). I was thrilled to be there. The white sands, the smell of the untouched beach, I’d waited a long time for it, my whole trip had been leading up to this moment. I’d been to Bazaruto once before, for a grand total of 45 minutes on a snorkelling trip. Because it is a protected area, I hadn’t been allowed in any further without a pass from the park that would cost me dearly. Now, I was invited by the park and would be staying in their facilities! Damn, I love my job! When I chose tourism as a career, it was moments like these I had in mind. And now here I was, happily wondering through the park while being offered the respect of a knowledgeable superior. I bled it for all it had. They could have bowed to me if they liked, they were more than welcome to. After practically chasing me out of their precious island once in the past, this was revenge served cold - delish!
Ok, don’t get me wrong; while Bazaruto Island is a piece of paradise, there are different grades of paradise on offer, customised to your personal budget. Accommodation ranges from basic (bring own food and gear, blah, blah, blah) to ultra-chic (a four-star lodge with all luxury little girls like me desire!). In comparison, my modest little place (actually, it’s a spacious beach house) was somewhere in between. The beach was at my doorstep and the water was a 3min walk away, forget hearing it, I could smell it. Only thing was (and this is big for me), there was no eating facility. The option was, cook for yourself or drive to the posh lodge. Well, option one was rejected coz no one told me I’d need to bring groceries along, so off I went to option two. My designated driver was a 20 year-old young man, the same who’d been manning our boat so capably on our ride to the island. I was impressed at such strong displays of manliness at such young age, but hey, they mature earlier in the sticks. My high opinion of him dropped a notch though, as I realised as I got closer to the car that the blaring sound coming from it was none other than (wait for it) Enrique Iglesias’ ‘Escape’. No I don’t mean a random song, he had the whole album on (wait for it again) tape! It was all could do to not express my shock. I honestly think he might’ve taken offence if I had. So we just made our silent trip over, and I kept my mouth shut. Luckily, I knew some of the songs, so I kinda sang under my breath to make him feel comfortable. Someone must ring Enrique and tell him his PR team is doing a heck of a job, what with getting him fans in remote islands at the edge of Africa and all.
Funny though, the path we took for our route to the posh lodge was through the beach (like I recently read in a book - warcrime!) and this is supposed to be forbidden in most countries. Sure, Moz has no laws against it yet, but hey, isn’t this a National Park? How come it’s ok for the staff to drive over sand crabs and run over birds? Not to mention the displacement of the sand… not impressed! (In their defence, it seems the normal path used is flooded due to high tides. My question is: if this is a yearly occurrence, why isn’t there an alternative path?) Anyway, we finally got to the lodge (about 5km from park), and I was told to wait at the bar while a table was prepared for me. This place is truly posh. I found myself wondering if I would be able to afford it. Turns out, they charge $18 for the buffet and $2 for the drink. In retrospect, it isn’t all that bad for a 4**** hotel, but then it sounded like daylight robbery. With the same amount, I had eaten for the past three nights on mainland! And I thought Vilanculos was expensive! Anyway, I smiled elegantly, and paid with a there’s-more-where-that-came-from expression on my face (though there wasn’t that much more), and walked out confidently. Now, this wouldn’t be complete if I didn’t mention that I was the only seated black person in the room (all other black people were either waiting tables or managing the waiters) and the only one there alone. These were good reasons to attract loads of attention. The manager had personally arranged for a table with a view (he was really cool) and escorted me to it. That left the rest of the room to wonder (and maybe him a little too), if I would be able to pay for the meal. The waiter came to me with a calculator at the end, should I need to do some mathematical headstand to cough up the dough. I was offended, of course, and settled my bill with the above-mentioned attitude.
On our way back, I noticed my driver was considerably more… what’s the word… conversational. He asked about my job, my life in Jo’burg, the price of a 2nd hand Nokia 6230i in SA, you know, the usual. I noticed that, probably in an attempt to redeem himself from his choice of music earlier, we were now forced to shout at each other over the blaring sounds of Lucky Dube. Tell you what, this boy has eclectic taste in music (Enrique Iglesias and Lucky Dube are highly unlikely to share a stage, but nowadays one never knows). Anyway, I was still a bit shocked by all the conversation coming out of him when I realised what had triggered it. He stopped mid-sentence to take a double swig of something in a can. I hadn’t realised he had one, coz it was cosily secured between his thighs. Couldn’t have a good look at the label, but from the sweet smell of barley, my guess is it wasn’t Coke. After that, I started paying double attention to the road. We narrowly missed a seagull, I’m sure we squished that crab and we went too close to a bush.
And then we were home. Well, as it turns out, due to electricity constraints, the park has electricity for 3 hours a day (18h00 - 21h00). After that, it is pitch black. We got home at 21h13, and as expected, it was dark. I had to find my way to my house, and that is kinda difficult when all around you is black beyond belief. Something brushed against my arm, and thought I heard a sound in the bush (what is it about the darkness that jolts one’s imagination?). Made it, tripped, stumbled and nearly fell. Fidgeted to get the key in the door (this took a while), got in, got (un)dressed in the dark, and climbed into bed. For a first day, it wasn’t too bad.
Day two in paradise was calm. Went out to do field work early on, the trip to the location is about 90 minutes (30km). On the way, the driver was back to his quiet self, and Lucky Dube was back on the speaker. The vegetation out there is truly exquisite! Green as far as the eye can see, with the odd interruption of perfect dunes of untouched white sand. Here and there, when uphill, the view is breathtaking: a mix of bush and beach sand dunes, with the occasional lake here and there and blue sea in the backdrop. Such diversity! The birds are magnificent, every colour, size and sound (D, u’d love this, really!). Anyway, once at location, it was business as usual. On our way back, we were once again tortured with Lucky Dube’s slo-motioned voice (I tell you if I have to hear him for another minute…), and I couldn’t help but wince painfully.
Later that night, on our way to the posh lodge for my dinner, I was pleasantly surprised (and once again, shocked). Not only had Lucky Dube been dismissed, but another crooner was on the speakers (no, not Enrique): Tony Braxton - the Best Of! I was partly flattered that he was so thoughtful as to change the music, and a bit uneasy about it. I’m a Toni fan with the best of them, but how many guys d’you know that sing along to ‘boy, you’re making me high’? Yeah, neither do I!
For that night, dinner was interesting. I was greeted warmly by another hotel manager, who was fully impressed at the work we were doing in the island. Turns out he was also a Tukkies Boy (a student at UP - read my profile!). Conversation was interesting, as another guest joined in, and so did the Scuba Manager (who could have been a Billabong model - blonde hair, perfect tan and square jaw! Those men actually exist in real life?). Well, the chat got so good, that when I asked to be escorted to my table for one, the Brad, the other guest, invited me to join him at his. He was a nice enough man, so I said yes (and he had been telling me all about his wonderful wife who’d just had to go back to California on work). Now, if I really wanted to get more attention on me than what I’d received the previous night (only black chick in the place, remember?), this was the way to do it. Enter and dine centre stage with a wealthy American heart surgeon (I kid you not, I have his card to prove it!). Of course, apart from the managers we’d been with, everyone thought the dirtiest things about me. But really, I couldn’t care less! Brad was great, a true gentleman, and made for great conversation about, oh just about everything! He did, however, insist on paying my bill, and in all honesty, I really wanted to pay it myself to show those other idiots that I could, but it would be impolite to refuse his offer. Back home, all went smoothly - I’d been smart enough to buy some candles on the way home.
My third night in Bazaruto was a lazy one. I did not go out to do fieldwork but remained in to put pen to paper, so was afforded the luxury of sleeping in. I was woken up by a commotion in the thatched roof, and the agitated sound of birds. Now, I probably should have mentioned this, but I share my chalet with a young couple of lovebirds (and I mean two actual birds, wings and everything). They moved in with me in my first day, and have since begun building their nest from the grass of the thatched roof. It’s a messy affair, as you can imagine, and they might have had a disagreement on the architecture, because I woke up to quite a commotion. Sharp and shrill chirping sounds, followed by a chase around the ceiling, and some displacement of dried grass. After waking up fully, and paying closer attention, I realised that not only was I sharing a room with the couple, I was interrupting their honeymoon - it was mating season! I watched the whole ritual: from the fluffy plumage parade to the coy chasing game and the actual mating. Now I understood why they needed a protected pad. Of course other ordinary birds were happy to have theirs on palm trees surrounded by chirpy neighbours, but not these youngsters, they needed a cosy place with en-suite bathroom.
Anyway, besides the birds, not much else happened. Got some work done, read a book in the sun, walked along the beach and had a cosy nap. Fed the birds in the garden, watched the lazy cat sleep amongst them (unbelievable!), and watched the squirrels run on the trees. Opted against going to the posh hotel for dinner, was invited to eat in instead. One of my hosts had arranged for a meal of calamari and crab to be prepared, double delish! After all this, I was ready to go home. I missed my family (especially because they live in a house with hot water and TV), but most of all, I missed my boyfriend who was desperately lonely without me (at least I like to think he was). The first was less than 24 hours away, and the second followed closely only 15 hours behind. I just couldn’t wait!
My 24 hrs in Mozambique was marked by travel and exhaustion. First I flew from Bazaruto to Vilanculos in a tiny charter plane. The short flight has three stops: one side of the island, then to another, and finally to Benguerua, a different island. All this is accomplished in a space of 20 minutes! Very impressive! While I hate flying small planes (don’t feel very stable to me), this beats the 2hour boat ride to mainland.
Once in Vilanculos, I had a couple of hours before my flight to Maputo, so decided to spend those at the airport restaurant. As there was no free table in the shade, I got all bold and approached a young fellow that was looking lonely on a perfectly situated table. He was happy to share it with me, and we got to chatting. I realised when he asked me if I was married that I’d been asked that countless time since I’d arrived in Moz. This worries me: does it mean I look married, or does society expect it of me now? Alternatively, I’d just assumed it was men’s way of ascertaining my availability, but if that was it, this displayed acute unoriginality from Moz Men. Anyway, my flight to Maputo lasted 60 minutes, followed hours later by another 50 minutes from Maputo to Johannesburg.
And that brought me to the end of my travels through Southern Mozambique. I must admit, the experiences were priceless, and the lessons invaluable. I made friends along the way and met a variety of people I do not want (or will be able) to forget. Despite the misfortunes and misadventures, I enjoyed every exhausting minute, and look forward to repeating the experience in further exploration of my home country.
And to you, I hope you enjoyed reading this half as much as I enjoyed writing it. If I came off a bit (or a lot) whinny, than I apologise. The intention was to show the experience from a city girl’s perspective. And that’s me. Your average Big City Girl. I’ve come to terms with it. Maybe someday the world will too.

